Return of The Smokehouse
March 6, 2014
It was no surprise to see the Smokehouse come back for another run at Braunstone Gate’s O Bar. The feelgood Southern barbecue food seemed to be a big hit – certainly was with me – and there was definitely something added by the catch-it-while-you-can nature of the pop-up.
On Tuesday night I went down with Rob – who hadn’t managed to get along before and was, it must be said, a little sceptical about the whole enterprise. He was, though, definitely won over and was last seen walking back towards Hinckley Rd getting straight on social media to enthuse.
The menu is more or less the same with a few tweaks. Rob had one of the new starters – chicken, potato and sweetcorn hash. It was a big old plate of campfire goodness – with chunks or barbecued corn sliced roughly of the cob all adding to the rustic feel. It was probably over-seasoned, but with flakes of excellent sea-salt so you didn’t really mind – it just made the excellent craft beers even more welcome. I had the scorched mackerel, marinated in a coriander pickle – a more refined dish, with tasted cured flesh and crispy flamed skin.
The “Big Smoke” mains are not subtle – and not meant to be – but you do get hits of intriguing flavours, from coriander to fennel to the divine crunchy pickled cabbage and onions. I had the pulled pork, cooked for 14 hours, which came two ways – pretty much straight out of the marinade and in chilli con carne form. None of it was overly spicy – more a late-arriving, smoky warmth – and it was all tender and gorgeous. Rob had the sliced brisket (just the 12 hours in the smoker for this one), a mountain of which came in a fantastic brioche bun. I’d say the gravy with the beef was maybe overly sweet but the flavour of the beef still came though and it’s a thoroughly enjoyable dish. We had sides of a potato baked in salt crust slathered in a herby garlic butter – simply wonderful – and as a concession to our five-a-day, fennel and jalapeno slaw, which seemed to have less smoke on the fennel than I remember but still a great salad.
The one thing I was looking forward above all to reacquainting myself with was the sticky toffee and maple pudding – and it wasn’t a let down. Excellent sponge surrounded by the most ambrosial lake of salted caramel and bourbon sauce. As the good quality vanilla ice-cream started to melt into that sauce I was reflecting there was no more pleasureable experience available in Leicester that night (please don’t tell me about it if you think there was).
So newbies or old timers, you’ve got another chance. It will be around for a few weeks – maybe longer if the bookings really fly in – so if it sounds like your thing, don’t hang around. I think you’ll enjoy it. More details here.
The Gate Bistro
December 11, 2011
I’m not over on Braunstone Gate very often thse days but it’s good to see a new independent restaurant opening in the heart of the strip there. Several of my West End pals expressed disappointment when Jones’ Bistro closed a couple of months back – every neighbourhood needs a nice little bistro serving a decent steak, something mediterranean and maybe a good breakfast at weekends and it looks like The Gate fits the bill .
Now I’ve not been yet so reports from you lot are welcome, but I like the cut of it’s gib – nothing too fancy or pricey but it looks fun enough. Evening menu has fully garnished 28-day hung steaks at around £12, other dishes such beer battered haddock, pork tenderloin wrapped in sage and serrano, free-range chicken breast with garlic and thyme rosti and grazing boards come in at around £9-£12. If it’s all done well – and head chef Adam Lynch has worked at a high level before – that sounds a bargain. Breakfasts sound promising too – full English, eggs benedict, eggs florentine, scrambled eggs with smoked salmon etc.
It’s located at 32-36 Braunstone Gate, next to Left Bank.
A toadally new concept?
May 6, 2010
Assiduous trawling around recruitment columns sometimes throws up some interesting information. For example, I can now reveal that a new “Gastrobar” is to open shortly in leicester – I believe Braunstone Gate but not sure exactly where – entitled Natterjacks. You’ll be excited to know that this at “the leading edge of a brand new concept”.
The lucky head chef will preside over a venue where “quality dining is incorporated within a relaxed bar environment, reflecting the keys to the company ethos; a strong sense of pride, passion, honesty, loyalty, integrity, teamwork, enjoyment, fulfilment, progress and recognition, making both the customer and team member experience second to none.” Phew!
The daytime offer of the bar will present “an array of delicious well-presented light lunches and a great coffeee culture for local businesses, residents and students alike”. No further detail of the nature of the cuisine yet – other than “gastrobar-style food” – but the evening will offer “a fantastic selection of freshly prepared dishes”.
It will have 90 covers and will open later this month. More info when I can get it.
Grecian 2010
April 22, 2010
When I hear a place describe itself as “a chic nightspot where beautiful people flock in search of escape from the Leicester scene” I kind of get the impression I’m not their key demographic. Hence I’ve never checked out Mobius on Braunstone Gate beyond a quick lunch when it first opened. Its restaurant however did seem to be a fairly serious affair, mixing modern european with thai influences.
News now comes of a change of tack and suddenly Greece is the word. Award winning chefs arrive live and direct from Athens, goes the PR. I think Leicester could bear another Greek restaurant – and there’s an attractive 40 per cent discount during May if you book ahead and get hold of an ad in today’s Leicester Mercury (an offer quite possibly repeated elsewhere). If there’s any big stifado fans out there ( Eh? Oh, grow up…) who want to give it a try, let me know because I could be persuaded.