November 12, 2009

As a happy carnivore, I reckon Leicester could do with a really good steakhouse and grill. Pleasant enough as it is, 1573 on Highcross Street doesn’t appear to be it.

Full credit to the people behind it – I understand they also run Colourworks just off Braunstone Gate – for their ambition. They’ve taken on both a listed building in the Old Grammar School (the name  refers to the year of the construction of the building) as well as the hyper-efficient chains that surround it in Highcross.  The interior is handsome and characterful though I’m not sure they’ve made the best use of space downstairs –  I’m sure they had limited scope to redesign.

1573 002There’s an all day cafe-style menu but the branding is “Bar and Grill” and they’ve majored on steaks, ribs and so on.   Me and J went along in the evening to sample the full menu. I started with a half rack of pork ribs. Nothing specific to complain about here – they were nice, I wanted to finsh them,  but they weren’t especially meaty and the marinade was not especially smoky or piquant or interesting. J’s starter of teriyaki salmon steak was similarly good enough  – I sometimes do it this way because the rather bland salmon that predominates nowadays needs something like a rich, sweet and sticky teriyaki to liven it up.

When it came to mains, it’s a bit sad to report the standout element of the dishes for each of us was the sauce.  All the steaks are trumpeted as scottish, dry-aged for up to 28 days and all that – they were Ok. My 8oz rib-eye (larger sizes avaiblable) was tender and nicely chargrilled but  flavourwise, meh.  Chips were pretty greasy and unimpressive, while the garnish was a fairly artlessly chopped collection of cherry tomatos and salad veg.  It wasn’t really above what you expected in a decent pub.    The Diane sauce though was creamy as you’d want and deliciously flavoured. J’s thoughts on his sirloin were similar –  again giving a thumbs up to the bourbon and peppercorn sauce.

We weren’t really inspired on this occasion to check out the deserts  – sticky toffee pudding, apple pie, chocolate fudge cake. There was however a nice surpise when the bill came – turns out it was two for one on steaks – though I’d not seen any publicity for the offer so can’t be sure when it applies. Two courses each, with the offer, and a very good bottle of Australian shiraz,  came to around £45.

As ever, I’d be interested to hear feedback from others who have been.


3 Responses to “1573”

  1. Mike said

    Hmmm… we had a slightly better experience there when we went a couple of weeks ago. Some friends had described the chips as “the best ever”, so we thought we’d better give it a whirl.

    As it turned out, they weren’t the best ever, but I’ve had a LOT worse. The sirloin steak was… not bad, actually; the salmon was… also not bad, if a bit lacking in flavour.

    If it sounds like I’m damning it with faint praise, I don’t intend to: It’s a perfectly pleasant grill, just not the sort of place you’re going to have a food revelation. Oh, and bonus points for the staff NOT asking us if everything was OK every two chuffin’ minutes!


    • riponia said

      I suspect we’re not that far apart actually. I suppose I was hoping for a bit more. And on the last point, that policy was very noticeable wasn’t it? We wouldn’t have minded just being checked with once if everyhting was ok.


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