Cedars

March 31, 2010

cedars mezeI went to Cedars not long after it opened a couple of years back in the, well, lively, location of Churchgate in Leicester. It was a pleasure  to welcome a Lebenese restaurant to the city but I found it a bit hit and miss – some of it very pleasant, some of it just not to my taste, in particular a preponderance of sharp, vinegary flavours. Service and presentation also misfired at times suggesting it hadn’t really settled down yet.

But the restuarant has survived, and I was pleased to get a chance to revisit last weekend, though it’s perhaps unfair to judge a restaurant by how it performs when feeding a set menu to 30 hungry people celebrating a birthday early on a Sunday evening.  With that in mind, I’ll say straight up that while the food we had wasn’t  outstanding, it was certainly consistently good and in the main gave the impression of being cooked with care and presented with pride.

We were provided with a wide variety of hot and cold meze to start. Kibiss pickles are too sharp for me, but pretty much everything else went down well – neatly trimmed chicken wings were nicely grilled and served with some delicious aioli, hummus was fine, the lamb sambousek (little pastry parcels) were tasty though the pastry could have been lighter. The  stuffed vines leaves were  good,  the falafel very good, while the tabouleh was full of very fresh parsely and a zingy dressing.  

Vegetarian mains were basically variations of veg stews with rice  and opinions seemed to vary from ok to very good. Carnivores were able to get stuck in to a variety of marinated grilled lamb and chicken with fries.  The Lebenese  house red was very quaffable , while service was swift and helpful. All in all, they did a very job for us, and I am more inclined to revisit now on a calmer evening (which means probably not one of their regular belly dancing evenings) to see what they can do. Haut cuisine it ain’t, but possibly more importantly it does seem a likeable place offering honest, robust Eastern Mediterranean food.

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