December 16, 2011

Entropy has always been popular with the critics. I’ve always been impressed  by the food, the service and philosophy of the place, but I wouldn’t say every report I’ve had from local people has been unequivocally positive. It’s the kind of place you know some people will want to call over-rated.

I think the doubters would have been won over at this week’s wine tasting event with Amphora wines because it brilliantly showcased the skill in kitchen. Tom Cockerill put together a four course game menu that was wine-matched by Patrick Whenham-Bossy of Amphora, a former sommelier at La Gavroche and Hambleton Hall no less.

Things kicked off with a sweet and fruity Malvoisie frizzante aperitif from Lombardy before a stunning local game terrine – a thick tranche of cuts of  meats wrapped in parma ham and studded with grapes and pistachios, providing a beautiful contrasting range of  flavour and texture. It was a brought together with  a fine cumberland sauce and matched with an a 1999 Chateau Grand Pey Lescours, Grand Cru  St. Emilion.  Next up were perfect tortellini of wild rabbit with pine nuts and micro leaves and a wonderfully intense, beautifully clear game consomme. The rabbit was coarse cut and satisfying,  finely seasoned with pepper and lemon and further enhanced  with a glass of Oloroso Riserva by Emilio Lustau .

Main course was a rich and warming venison casserole  with smooth celeriac mash and a root vegetable pave. This later was cut so finely on a mandoline that it needed only the briefest of cooking, meaning all the elements maintained their flavour. Comfort food of a high quality, taken to a higher level with a glass of  Chateauneuf du Pape “Capelan”.

Desert was a dark chocolate mousse with olive oil, perked up with white chocolate thins flavoured with rosemary and seasalt. I always find herbs with chocolate a high risk strategy, but when it works it can be great and these were fantastic. This was matched with a South African muscatel de Frontignan, almost less of desert wine and more of  a digestif.

So you get the picture.  Fine food, fine cooking.   Some of it simple, some of it more technical, all of it done with style. I got the feeling the chefs were enjoying laying on a bit of a treat – and that’s a great feeling to get coming out of a kitchen. I’d say look out more of these special events because this one was great.


3 Responses to “Entropy”

  1. […] jQuery("#errors*").hide(); window.location= data.themeInternalUrl; } }); } riponia.wordpress.com – December 16, 12:59 […]


  2. […] news coming out of Leicester’s West End. Entropy – high-performing, Slow Food loving, rare breed cooking, all-round nice guys – is up […]


  3. […] sad news for Leicester in that Entropy is set to close on 19 July. Tom Cockerill (below, having prepared a South Devon steak and […]


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