Review – 34 Windsor Street

April 6, 2015

34 windsorI was back at 34 Windsor St recently to review the work of new chef Arran Shaw. I’d recently interviewed Arran for Great Food Club and he struck me as passionate, serious -minded chef committed to offering adventurous and innovative food which remained a strong focus on customer satisfaction.

Arran Shaw

Arran Shaw

For my starter a slow-cooked hen’s egg sat on a crunchy granola-type base, along with sweet sautéd wild mushrooms and a pillow of baked potato foam with “truffle aroma”. Enough there to go wrong but it was a delightful balance of flavours and textures and of cooking techniques. That said I wasn’t convinced about the texture of baked potato foam – it had the flavour but was a little on the gloopy side. Another starter of home cured salmon was a revelation – without a strong smoke or over-salting the flavour of the fish sang out merrily. Beer mustard and red and gold beetroot also delivered strongly but aside from the fish the main point of interest was a slice of remarkably complex Russian black bread. Apparently it has taken several years to perfect this, time well spent because the flavours came rushing out of it.

Lamb with rhubarb was another successful combination, giving an intriguing sharp contrast to the super-sweet lamb rump. The slight bitter notes from the cooked slivers of cucumber added a further layer of complexity. The traditional rosemary flavour was introduced through herby mash. I was further pleased the lamb had not been trimmed within an inch of its life – the fat helped deliver flavour and succulence.

Welsh sea bass fillets were perfect, with crunchy little potato rosti and a mild, smooth and creamy garlic and plum tomato sauce.

Desserts were complex, multi-layered collections but everything felt right. Maple roasted pineapple was inspired and the rich, crumbly coconut sponge with it was a great match. I didn’t get a great deal out the banana and malt ice-cream but the dish worked well and was a great match with the exotic fruit flavours of a glass of Muscat de Rivesaltes. A tasting of chocolate featured a rich nutty, brownie, dark and white chocolate ganaches, a coffee and cardamom ice-cream and chocolate soil – with a curve-ball delivered by a splash of tarragon oil. It all might sound over the top but was a delicate and well-balanced affair.

Dinner was served with good humour by very well-briefed and efficient staff in a smart environment, with even the crockery gaining appreciative comments from my artist guest. With rewarding food like this, 34 Windsor should definitely be on the map for serious diners from all over the county, as well as those poor souls over on the wrong side of the A5.

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One Response to “Review – 34 Windsor Street”

  1. […] in Leicestershire’s Excellence in Tourism Awards – with a highly commended going to 34 Windsor St. (Not to forgot my friend, and reader of this  blog, Richard Buckley who, not surprisingly I think […]

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