Beating the January blues

January 18, 2018

A belated happy new year to  all. January can seem to be a bit of a after-the-show non-event in food terms. But it’s good to report there’s some worthy things happening in Leicester.

Last night I had a fabulous dinner at the King Richard III – starting with a heavenly French Onion soup. Nicely caramelised onions in a lovely brown stock hid under a coverlet of croutons and a thick layer of gooey melted cheese. Served in a mini-marmite and twith top-notch sourdough toast and salted butter it was a really well-done French classic. Also impressing was a generous serving of salt and pepper calamari with impeccably crisp batter and zingy mayonnaise.

french onion kriii

 

Main courses highlighted the kitchen’s robata grill and the awesome smokey char it imparts. From the grill menu, the onglet steak was simply gorgeous with an almost gamey flavour, while the chips, onion ring and portobello  mushroom accompaniments were spot on.  Lamb chop and leg steak were equally as good, with a dauphinoise of spectacular richness and a pot of mushroom ketchup that was ideal for chip-dipping.

onglet kriii

Food this good  (I’m not sure I’ve had better steak in the city) is a pleasure enough, but for the whole of January there’s 20 per cent of food prices making it an extraordinary bargain – that onglet with the discount just about struggled to make it over a tenner.

Also brightening up the winter is news that San Carlo on Granby Street is introducing the cicchetti menu (think Venetian tapas) that has proved successful in their restaurants in London and Manchester. And from 26th January to 12 February (only until 5pm on Saturdays) there will be 50 per cent off dishes such as truffled burrata with parma ham, spaghettini with prawns and mussels, lobster risotto and Tuscan fish stew.

The Leicester restaurant has just been named UK Restaurant of the Year by Les Routiers, so this big discount is a great opportunity to try out their new approach.

Also intriguing me are two pop-ups launching in January. Building on the runaway success of both Canteen at the Depot and of the St Martin’s area, is the Cank Street Dining Club. I’ve not got to the bottom of who’s behind it, but their claim is “We take the elements we like best from different Street Food Cultures around the world and combine them to create our own dishes”. Apparently this means the likes of Korean galbi beef tacos, yakitori chicken and jerk pork loaded fries. It’s located on Cank Street, opposite Paper Tiger, and is open from 11.45 am to 8.30pm on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays until 10 February. Vegan alternatives, natch.

KAIele6Also in St Martin’s is Kai, a stylish café which hasn’t quite pulled me in yet for its daytime menu of brunches, Buddha bowls and curries. I definitely intend to give it a try soon, including its pop-up incarnation on weekend evenings as the Yellow Elephant (as in Black Horse, Red Lion etc) doing  – loosely – Indian fusion version of pub classics. Hence crab and prawn scotch with lemon and chilli pickle, chicken tikka burger in a naan wrap and thali curries.

So, plenty of new year options for jaded palates.

 

 

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One Response to “Beating the January blues”

  1. […] couple of weeks back I mentioned San Carlo’s switch to a cicchetti menu at their Leicester restaurant on Granby Street. Maybe some will have […]

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